This is a hike I have been planning this hike for at least a year or so. I read about it on a lot of Romanaian language blogs. For the most part they are correct, but the estimates for this round trip hike from Stâna lui Burnei, Argeș county are very optimistic.
Moldoveanu Peak (at 2.544 meters) is the highest peak in Romania, located in the Făgăraș Mountains. Făgăraș Mountains are per se located about two hours away from Bucharest, but trails in these mountains are less accessible compared to other mountains (for example Bucegi, Tâmpa, Piatra Mare or Ciucaș).
The hike starts at a place called Stâna lui Burnei, which is seasonally used as sheepfold (see the location below).
The hike up takes about 4 hours, for a average hiker with plenty of breakes on the route and a lunch break at the peak, might take longer for new hikers or people that have not hiked in a while. The quickest ascent route is through Valea Rea (Bad Valley).
On the return route, there are two options: Valea Rea or Lacul Galbena (Yellow Lake), both taking about 4 hours.
Below you can see the full hike from my Strava account made with my latest acquisition - the Huami Amazfit smart watch.
The Drive to Stâna lui Burnei
... is bad ... baaad.
The drive is about 4 hours - 1 hour to Pitești via highway, 1 hour on paved road to the Slatina commune, and 2 hours on the 40 km of unpaved road to Stâna lui Burnei.
The unpaved road is not the worst, even by Romanian standards, but there are a lot of wholes, so unless you want to wreck your car, the drive on this section is really slow with zig zaging around the numerous wholes.
Once the road ends you get to Stâna lui Burnei (picture below).
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| Moldovanu Peak Hike - Stâna lui Burnei |
Stâna lui Burnei to the Făgăraș Ridge Trail
This leg of the hike is the most challenging one I have ever hiked (I have not hiked a lot really). It is very very steep on two portions and will take about 3 hours easily (breaks included).
Going past Stâna lui Burnei, the ascent on the Hârtopul Ursului Mountain starts with a short walk through the forest and then on to the mountain. It is very steep and it will take about one hour. It is a short distance, but it will test one's endurance because of the 500 meters in elevation difference.
We made plenty of stops on the way, and got to admire the Valea Rea Valley and Stâna lui Burnei below.
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| Moldoveanu Peak Hike - Trail on the edge of the Hârtopul Ursului Mountain |
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| Moldoveanu Peak Hike - Steep uphill portion of the trail on the edge of the Hârtopul Ursului Mountain |
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| Moldovanu Peak Hike - Stâna lui Burnei from above |
This first ascent ends at the Valea Rea Glacial Valley. The valley itself is very swampy, so it is best to follow the trail if you do no want to get covered in mud.
Getting to the bottom of the trail leading up to Viștea Mare should not take longer than 30 minutes, and it is a relaxes hike (definitely compared to the previous ascent).
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| Moldoveanu Peak Hike - Valea Rea Glacial Bucket/Găleata Văii Rele (Moldoveanu Peak and Viștea Mare Peak can be seen in the background) |
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| Moldoveanu Peak Hike - View of the Moldoveanu Peak from Valea Rea Glacial Bucket/Găleata Văii Rele |
Iezerul Tringhiular is a glacial mini-lake, which is ... triangular. The water is very clear and clean (I assume) and if you feel like it you can even take dip in it.
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| Moldoveanu Peak Hike - Iezerul Triunghiular |
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| Moldoveanu Peak Hike - Valea Rea Glacial Bucket/Găleata Văii Rele seen from Iezerul Triunghiular |
Red Triangle Trail To Viștea Mare
A short walk up the mountain past the Iezerul Triunghiular lake, the red traingle trail will end when it meets the Făgăraș Mountains Ridge Trail. This last one is a very long trail (100+ kilometers crossing the ridge of the Făgăraș Moutains from West to East).
We followed only the portion of it leading up close to the Viștea Mare Peak, which was the second biggest uphill leg of this day hike (with an elevation difference of about 400 meters).
The views are stunning. Looking down you can see the full view from above of the Valea Rea Valley and on the other side ... Trrransylvania (the towns of Victoria and Făgăraș).
Expect for the very short distane to take about another 45 minutes to an hour up to Viștea Mare Peak.
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| Moldoveanu Peak Hike - View of the Viștea Mare Peak from the base of the trail |
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| Moldoveanu Peak Hike - View of the Hârtopu Ursului Peak from the trail to Viștea Mare Peak (with Transylvania in the far background) |
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| Moldoveanu Peak Hike - View of Transylvania with the town of Victoria in the background |
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| Moldoveanu Peak Hike - Ucișoara Ridge |
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| Moldoveanu Peak Hike - View of the Moldoveanu Peak from the base of the Viștea Mare Peak |
Viștea Mare Peak to Moldoveanu Peak
I did not quite get to the Viștea Mare Peak as there is the option to bypass it, by turning left on a small trail that goes right below it.
Shortly afterwards you will get to the ridge between Viștea Mare and the Moldoveanu Peak. As we went there on a Saturday morning it was really busy and on some of the portions we had to wait for our turn.
The portion in the picture below is where the bottle neck happens and it is somewhat difficult as you need to use the chains to cross to the other side (with the steep exposed rocky mountain sides on each side).
It is the point where I almost had an urde to return, but fortunately did not. Once past this obstacle, the ridge trail is a lot easier and in 15 minutes you will get to the Moldoveanu Peak.
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| Moldoveanu Peak Hike - last leg of the trail between Viștea Mare and Moldovanu Peak (with Moldoveanu Peak in the background) |
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| Moldoveanu Peak Hike - 100 meters/10 minutes away |
If doing this trail on any given weekend in August expect crowds of people when you get to Moldoveanu. I actually was barely able to take a decent photo because of the sheer number of people (about 30-40).
At this point there are two options, both taking about 4 hours.
Option 1 - go back using the exact same route
Option 2 - return on the Galbena Valley trail (longer, but again takes about the same)
I wound up being conviced to take the Option 2, which was the best option - less boring to take the same route and also the scenery and the views were worth it.
Descent to the Galbena Peak
Well, as they say, it is all downhill from here.
Looking south you will se the trail zig zagging down, to the Piscu Roșu Peak (Red Peak in Romanian), and then a quick ascent - the only one of the return path fortunately to the Galbena Peak.
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| Moldoveanu Peak Hike - Looking South from the Moldoveanu Peak - Piscu Roșu Peak to the left, and Galbena Peak right after |
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| Moldoveanu Peak Hike - View of the Moldoveanu Peak from the ridge trail leading to the Piscu Roșu Peak |
Descent to Stâna lui Burnei via the Galbena Glacial Valley
Watch out for the blue cross mark once on the Galbena Peak. It is a marker added very recently (the Summer of 2018).
From the Galbena Peak you will get a fabulous view of the Galbena Glacial Valley, which has two big glacial lakes and a few small one.
If you loose sight of the trail marks, onțt worry, just follow the people or head towards the lakes, there is a small one at first and then you will see a bigger one once you get close to the first.
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| Moldoveanu Peak Hike - Galbena Glacial Valley as seen from the Galbena Peak |
I recommend enjoying the Galbena Lake for 30 minutes. Most likely you will get there in the afternoon, at which time the lake will have a turqoise glow. 2 die 4.
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| Moldoveanu Peak Hike - Galbena Glacial Lake as seen from the descent from the Galbena Peak |
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| Moldoveanu Peak Hike - glacial lake in the Galbena Glacial Valley on the descent to the Stâna lui Burnei |
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| Moldoveanu Peak Hike - glacial lake in the Galbena Glacial Valley on the descent to the Stâna lui Burnei |
Once at the edge of the lakes, a steep descnet will start, first through dwarf pine trees and then through the forest.
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| Moldoveanu Peak Hike - Valea Rea Valley from a different angle (Stâna lui Burnei is right at the bottom) |
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| Moldoveanu Peak Hike - Valea Rea Valley from a different angle (Stâna lui Burnei is right at the bottom) |
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| Moldoveanu Peak Hike - the last glacial caldera on the trail back to Stâna lui Burnei |
... and four hour later ... tah tah ... back to the starting point.
In retrospect, it was one of the most beautiful hikes I have made more challenging than other hikes, but also more scenic.
I warmly recommend.
