Wednesday, January 9, 2019

Moutain Biking in Bucegi - Downhill Șaua Strunga - Simon - Piatra Arsă - Omu - Strunga - Bran - Râșnov

This is a bike ride I took with a buddy of mine this summer (2018), in the month of August,  a few few weeks after we hiked a similar trail - part of which overlayed the piece from Omu Peak to Șaua Strunga.

We got the idea to do so, because during our hike we saw a lot of people biking downhill, and I said to myself why not do this, it must be awesome.

Depending on your physical condition, this ride can take between 10 - 14 hours. It took me about 14 hours, but I was not necessarily in peak physical condition (had a lot of breaks, pushed my bike a lot).
It is not the easiest ride, but it is doable by anybody with a mountain bike (preferably one with disk brakes and at least 9 gears).

There are three stages to this bike trip:
  • Piatra Arsa to the Babele Cabin
  • Babele Cabin to the Cerdacul Obârșiei viewpoint
  • Cerdacul Obârșiei viewpoint to the Omu Peak
  • the ride downhill from Omu Peal to Râșnov via Șaua Strunga
  • Tthere is also the ride from Râșnov to Bușteni, but it might be too much if you have not biked in a while or simply not biked such distances at all. We hitche hiked to Bușteni (where we left our car in the morning).

Getting to Piatra Arsă

We originally wanted to go up to the Babele Cabin, via the aerial tramway from Bușteni to Babele, but we got there at 7am, which for an August Saturday is very late. By the time we got there there were already a few hundred people in the line to go up. Keep in mind that you have to buy 3 (three !!) tickets to the aerial tramway, if you plan to take your bycicle (one ticket per person and two tickets for the bycicle, as space is limited in the cabin).

Not wanting to wait and also considering the price, which we only found out when we got there, we got a ride to Piatra Arsă from one of the many local companies offering such services - it cost 80 RON, and we took Transbabele to get there in a about an hour.

The End of the Transbabele Road, with the beginning of the trail to the Babele Cabin

The Ride from Piatra Arsă to the Babele Cabin



If you have not done this in a while, or not at all (as was the case with myself), it is a good intro to moutain biking. 

This portion of the trail is very level, but it can be become very crowded. It trail begins with a low incline and then the trail becomes steeper, as the trail goes up very close to the top of the Cocora Peak (2.191 meters).

After passing by the Cocora Peak, the incline becomes more bearable, up to the aerial tramway from Bușteni. There is a difficult portion from here to the Babele Cabin and Sphinx (I pushed my bike as pedaling was waaaay too difficult).

Mountain Biking in Bucegi - Caraiman Massif and the Caraiman Heroes' Cross as seen from the trail between Piatra Arsă and the Babele Cabin

The Ride from the Babele Cabin to Cerdacul Obărșiei



This portion of the ride is easy for the most part, a few small downhill and uphill portions, and then a easy slope towards the Cerdacul Obârșiei.
Moutain Biking in Bucegi - Colții Obârșiei Peak in the background

Moutain Biking in Bucegi - Colții Obârșiei Peak in the background
One of the most difficult portions of this segment is the one around the Colții Obârșiei Peak, which is a very tight trail on the edge of the ravine (pictured below). On this portion it might be necessary for the more unexperienced mountain bikers to push their bikes. This only takes about 15 minutes, it is not much of a hassle.

The views are amazing, with the Valea Cerbului (Stag's Valley) to the right and the Omu Peak in front.
Once at the Cerdacul Obârșiei (the Verandha of the Spring as it translates into English), it is high time to take a break, catch one's breath and enjoy the view, before continuing to the next step which is the toughest one of the day (by bike or pushing the bike).
Moutain Biking in Bucegi - Omu Peak and Cabin in the background

Moutain Biking in Bucegi - the trail to the Cerdacul Obârșiei (in the middle) and Găvanele Peak in the backgroud to the right

Moutain Biking in Bucegi - Colții Moraruui

Moutain Biking in Bucegi - Cerdacul Obârșiei (in the middle), Găvanele Peak above and Bucura Peak in the backgroud to the right


The Ride from the Cerdacul Obărșiei to the Omu Cabin/Peak



It is tough - that is all I can say. The altitude difference is about 150 meters to be covered in less than  a kilometer (half mile).
The trail is free of any major obstacles, but it was tough because of the steep slope - I had to push my bike for the most part of this segment. Might be possible to cycle, if you have a moutain bike with 9, 10 or 11 read gears. Mine only has 7 so it was not really possible to cycle uphill.

Once at the Omu Peak and Cabin, time for the lunch break.
Moutain Biking in Bucegi - Taking a break at the Omu Cabin/Peak

The Downhill Ride from the Omu Peak/Cabin to Râșnov



Once at Omu Peak, as they say, it is all downhill from here, with a few portions of climbing. The altitude difference is 900 meters, but fortunately downhill for the most part.

It is not necessarily a leisurely bike ride, but is very enjoyable. For this portion, one needs to make sure that the brakes and in tip top shape (if you have organic brake pads on your mountain bike you will probably need to replace them after this 😃).

There are three main parts this:
  • the descent from Omu to the Strunga Refuge, on the Western ridge of the Bucegi Mountains
  • the descent from the Strunga Refuge to Bran, also on the Western ridge of the Bucegi Mountains
  • the asphalt ride from Bran to Râșnov

Moutain Biking in Bucegi - Biking past the Bucura Peak with Gaura Glacial Valley to the right
Moutain Biking in Bucegi - Biking past the Găvanele Peak with Cerdacul Obârșiei and Colții Obârșiei below in the background

Moutain Biking in Bucegi - Biking past the Găvanele Peak with Cerdacul Obârșiei and Colții Obârșiei below in the background

Moutain Biking in Bucegi - Biking past the Găvanele Peak with Doamnele Peak in the background

Moutain Biking in Bucegi - Biking towards the Doamenele Peak with Mecetu Turcesc rock formation in the foreground and Colții Obârșiei Peak in the background

Moutain Biking in Bucegi - Biking towards the Strunga Refuge - the trail continues all the way to the last peaks to be seen here. This is the Western less traveled and less touristy part of the Bucegi Mountains (Bătrâna Peak and Refuge in the middle, then further behind Strungile Mari Peak and even further Tătaru Peak where the trail begins to descend from the mountain)

Moutain Biking in Bucegi - Biking towards the Strunga Refuge - Bătrâna Peak in the far background

Moutain Biking in Bucegi - Biking towards the Strunga Refuge - looking back towards the Doamnele Peak 
Moutain Biking in Bucegi - Biking towards the Strunga Refuge - the dwarf pines segment right before the Bătrâna Peak 


Moutain Biking in Bucegi - Biking towards the Strunga Refuge - Bătrâna Peak and refuge
Moutain Biking in Bucegi - Biking towards the Strunga Refuge - Strungile Mari Peak


Moutain Biking in Bucegi - Tătaru Peak with the Strunga Refuge below
Moutain Biking in Bucegi - downhill to Bran - Strungile Mari Peak to the right
Moutain Biking in Bucegi - downhill to Bran - Colții Țapului Peak to the right



Moutain Biking in Bucegi - downhill to Bran - entering the forest

Moutain Biking in Bucegi - downhill to Bran - Western ridge of the Bucegi Moutains (from left to right Doamnele Peak in the far background, Batrâna Peak in the middle and Colții Țapului Peak to the right)


Moutain Biking in Bucegi - downhill to Bran

Moutain Biking in Bucegi - downhill to Bran -  view of the Gaura Valley with the Omu Peak in the high in the background


Moutain Biking in Bucegi - finally in Bran

Moutain Biking in Bucegi - back to civilazation - enjoying a cup of coffee in Râșnov







Monday, November 12, 2018

Weekend Trip from Bucharest - Transfagarasan Highway/Road


Top Gear calls it the World's Best Road possibly, World's Best Road Trip. That is how the Transfăgărășan Road is described on google.
Transfăgărășan (known as the National Road 7C) is a road across the Făgăraș Moutains linking Transylvania to the rest of Romania which climbs to an altitude of 2,042 metres (6,699 ft) and it is a scenic and beautiful and also a very difficult drive.

Upon realizing that this is only two hours away from Bucharest, we decided one October morning to take advantage of the a few days beautiful fall weather and go there for the weekend, especially since it was a good opportunity to see the mesmerizing colors of the fall foliage.

Keep in mind that the road is closed from November 1st to June the 30th each year, and for the rest of the year from 20:00 to 8:00 o'clock every day, as the driving conditions become dangerous at night.

This weekend trip was a combo, because there are a few other places to see on the way just right for spending a relaxing weekend with familty and/or friends:
  • The Transfăgărășan Road itself (the southern portion to be more specific) is a winding road with scenic views of forests, mountain tops and glacial valleys. 
  • The Vidraru Dam - artificial dam built in the 1960s is right on the Transfăgărășan Road and a good firt stop
  • Bâlea Lake - is the top point of the Transfăgărășan Road, and the beginning of the descent into Transylvania. Very nice glacial lake here with lots of touristy amenities.
  • Poenari Castle - (one) of the true residences of Vlad the Impaler a.k.a. Dracula. Located right before the ascent to the Vidraru Dam, but a 30 minute hike on the top of a hill (thunder sounds and evil laughs not included :-) ).
  • Curtea de Argeș Monastery - could as well be the first stop on the way to Bâlea Lake or the last stop on the drive back to Bucharest. It is the a monastery buildt in the 1600s, which houses the Royal graves of the first two kings of Romania.

The drive is an easy one - 1 hour tops from Bucharest to Pitești via the A1 highway and then another hour from Pitești to the Vidraru Dam, the first stop on the weekend trip.

Beware that from the Vidraru Dam to the Bâlea Lake the drive is about 1 1/2 hours.

First Stop of the Day -  Vidraru Dam

About 1 hour and 30 minutes into the trip will reach the village of Arefu.

As as side note, Arefu is a place where there are a few good options for staying overnight, with decent quality and affordable prices. The higher up on Transfăgărășan you go the more expensive the accommodations.

The drive up the moutain begins here. After a 15 minute scenic steep drive through canyons and viaducts you will reach Vidraru Dam (the Transfăgărășan crosses it).

You can park on eiher sides of the dam. Plenty of things to admire here: the view towards the lake, the view of the dam looking downstream as well as the statue of Prometheus (the Greek god who stole the fire). 

I tried looking down the dam, but I was so terrified that afterwards I walked on the dam on the center divide of the road :-) lol.

There is a viewing deck which allows for even better views. I will spend an hour maximum here.

Transfăgărășan Road - Vidraru Dam

Transfăgărășan Road - Vidraru Dam - Looking 166 meters down (gotta have the stocmatch for this)
Transfăgărășan Road - Vidraru Dam
Transfăgărășan Road - Vidraru Dam - the Observation Deck to the Right
Transfăgărășan Road - Vidraru Dam - Statue of Prometheus

Ascent to Bâlea Lake

From Vidraru Dam, the drive to the Bâlea Lake is another hour and 30 minutes. The road is winding with lots of curves whcih turn into hairpin turns after the road goes past the edge of the Vidraru Lake.

Keep in mind that past Piscu Negru (20 minutes from the edge of the Vidraru Lake) the road is closed from November 1st to June the 30th each year, and for the rest of the year from 20:00 to 8:00 o'clock every day, as the driving conditions become dangerous at night especially since there are no fences on the edge of the road.

Piscu Negru is the midway between Vidraru Dam and the Bâlea Lake. It is the starting point for a few medium/difficult, but awesome as I heard, hiking trails including the one leading up the Negoiu Peak, Romania's second tallest peak at 2.535 meters.

Past Piscu Negru the driving scenery get beautiful - you driving at an altitude of around 2.000 meters with mountain peak surrounding you - and the driving gets difficult - easy to get caught into admiring the views, no road fences for the most part, and a very steep ascent.

The ascent ends with the 800 meters tunnel to Bâlea Lake at an altidtude of 2.000 meters.

Transfăgărășan Road - Valea Caprei glacial valley ahead

Transfăgărășan Road - the uppermost portion with the entry into the tunnel

Transfăgărășan Road - the uppermost portion

Transfăgărășan Road - the uppermost portion - no fence on the road 


Bâlea Lake

Once out of the Bâlea tunnel the road leads into the Bâlea glacial caldera. It is surrounded by peaks 2.400+ meters high and in the middle of it lies the Bâlea Lake, a glacial lake. 

The lake crystal clear and worth admiring for a few minutes. Also, the quiet is deafening. I haven't been to such a quiet place since I have been to the Monument Valley in Arizona long long time ago.

The are two cabins open year roud here and an ice hotel open during the winter. There are also plenty of food and souvernir stalls.

Keep in mind that this place is touristy, plenty of people, but given the sheer size, it will not feel crowded.
Transfăgărășan Road - the old Bâlea Cabin
Transfăgărășan Road - Bâlea Lake

Transfăgărășan Road - the old Bâlea Cabin

Transfăgărășan Road - Bâlea Lake

Transfăgărășan Road - Bâlea Lake
There also plenty hiking trails starting here, leading to the mountain peaks around the Bâlea Lake, so it is a good starting point for planning full weekend hikes.
Transfăgărășan Road - Bâlea Lake an the surrounding peaks 

Poenari Castle

I saved this for last, but it definitely last but not least.

Poenari Castle is located in the village of Arefu, perched high up on a hill and accessible from the Transfăgărășan Road via 1.480 concrete steps.

Buildt around 1453,  right around the time when the Spaniards were setting foot in the Americas, it was one of the actual residences for Vlad the Impaler a.k.a. Count Dracula, and it is the location the inspired the novel of the same name by Bram Stoker.

The hike up was spectacular for us given the fall season with all the red, yellow, orange and green typical of this season. It only took us about 30 minutes, with two kids, so without kids and good physical condition it can probably be done in 15 minutes.
Transfăgărășan Road - Stairs leading up the Poenari Castle
Once up you can admire the beautiful scenery and the ruins of the castle, a portion of which collapsed into the valley at the north. While the size of this former fortress is not necessarily impressive, its location is. It is only accessible by foot, which got me wondering how difficult it would have been to build and access it in the past.
Transfăgărășan Road - Poenari Castle

Transfăgărășan Road - Inside the ruins of the Poenari Castle

Transfăgărășan Road - Poenari Castle - some kitschy stuff
Transfăgărășan Road - Inside the ruins of the Poenari Castle

Transfăgărășan Road - Poenari Castle - looking down towards the Vidraru Dam

Curtea de Argeș Monastery

When travelling on the Transfăgărășan from Bucharest, one must stop to see the Curtea de Argeș Monastery. It resembles a very large and elaborate mausoleum, and was built in the Byzantine architectural style, with Moorish arabesques finalized in 1517.

It is the burial place of the first two kings of modern Romania (Carol I and Ferdinand I) and their spouses.

There is even a legend about this place, Legend of Manole, the builder of the mondastery, who allegedly had to bury his wife Ana alive into the building for it to stop falling apart every night.

Worth speding a hour here.

Curtea de Argeș Monastery
Curtea de Argeș Monastery 



Curtea de Argeș Monastery - the tumbs of the Ferdinand I and Queen Mary - the second king of Romania

We have definitely enjoyed our combo trip to Bâlea Lake via the Transfăgărășan and I hope you will too.